Fresh Snow at Roche-A-Cri State Park

Hiking at Roche-A-Cri State Park is a new me. For years I’ve seen signs for it on the highway when driving past it to the Northwoods but never stopped to check it out. I wanted to get my first glimpse of winter and walk through fresh snowfall without driving too far north. 300ft rock outcropping and petroglyphs, how have I never been here?

The park has a classic Wisconsin central sands vibe. Pine forests, sandstone rocks, and large grassy prairies. And with the new snow and clear blue sky, it’s a winter paradise. 

The petroglyphs are worn down by the wind but still well worth checking out. From the top of the outcropping, you can see the flat landscape stretch for miles. Dotting the landscape are other rock outcroppings. These were former islands from ancient Lake Wisconsin which covered most of central Wisconsin.

Overall, a pleasant and easy hike, minus the 300 steps up to the top of the rock. 

If you go:

Gentle Annie Track

The COVID world tour continues. In April, Australia and New Zealand opened a travel bubble between the two countries. And despite a few outbreaks in Australia, the bubble is holding. 

NZ is hiking heaven. Everywhere you go there are trails to hike. And for the most part, they are all breathtaking. For example, today we drove about an hour outside of Wellington with no plan in mind. Wanting to stretch the legs we picked a random trailhead and started hiking.

There are a lot of entry points to the Tararuas providing access to the windswept ridges and lush valleys. Today we started at the Holdsworth Road End. At the road end, there are spots for car camping and the start of the Gentle Annie Track.

The track heads uphill for 2 miles to aptly named Rocky Lookout, a great place to enjoy snacks and soak in the view. From here we continued onwards to Mountain House Shelter. We were tempted to continue on to the summit of Holdsworth Peak but we started too late for that.

To make it a loop, we descended the River Ridge Track until we reached the beautiful Atiwhakatu Stream. Azure blue water coursed past us as we walked the last two miles back to the car. 

This 7-mile hike was a great reintroduction to New Zealand hiking. It has all the classic kiwi scenery I missed: lush fern-filled forest, crystal clear water, and unspoiled views.

If you go:

38km Run Through Freycinet National Park

I’ve dabbled in trail running but never fully dived into it. Over the last couple of months, I’ve had more time (and phenomenal trails) to focus on improving my running.

It was nearing the end of our two months living in Freycinet National Park I wanted to do something big, something that challenged me before we left. Recently I turned 38 and had been mulling over the idea of running 38km (23.6mi) to celebrate. The idea was a bit crazy since my longest run to date was 12km, a run I did in the last few weeks.

I was studying the trail maps to see what hikes I left to do on the peninsula. The only trail left to do was the farthest beach from our house, Bryan's beach. It was exactly a 38km round trip. I had my challenge. 

Up to the night before I wasn’t sure I was going to do it. But when I woke before dawn, I figured it was now or never.

The run started with a climb to the Wineglass Bay lookout. I had done this run several times, but starting in the dark gave my mind something new to focus on. 

The crisp morning air at the top had me feeling good. I flew down the other side of the saddle and across the peninsula to Hazards Beach. The next 1.25 miles was on the beach. Thankfully the sand was hard-packed. Around this point, a switch was flipped in my head. I went from maybe to 100% laser-focused on doing the whole thing. 

I stashed my day pack on Cooks Beach and ran the remaining 3 miles to the end of Bryan’s Beach, my halfway point.

On the return trip, the tide was starting to come in. The sand higher up on the beach was less firm. A slog. Back at my pack, I took a 5-minute break to eat all my snacks. The tide was even higher now on Hazards Beach. My legs were starting to burn.

I took the Hazards Beach Track, a slightly longer way back, to make my route 38km. This track is also more scrabbly with small ups and downs. It was starting to get hard to control my speed on downhills, which was freaking me out a little. But I had done this route many times and thankfully knew the terrain.

The last half mile on this trail stretched on for eternity. It was feeling like days. My lungs were burning along with my legs. Then the meticulously groomed Wineglass Bay Track appeared. All downhill to home. I was glad the parking lot was clear cause I was too exhausted to stop for traffic. 

I got home and collapsed on the floor.

Links:

Mount Graham and Freycinet Summit

19 miles, 4,500 feet of elevation gain, and 2 summits. This is the hike I’ve been most excited about since we moved to Freycinet National Park. Between work and the shorter days, it’s been harder to actually squeeze into the schedule than I’d imagined. 

We headed off on the well-maintained track to Wineglass Bay. The beach is picturesque and the day is stunningly clear. After the beach, we climb up the much less manicured Penisula Track to Mount Graham. Rocks, roots, and a lot of vertical. Or, as I like to think, a lot more fun walking. We climb higher views begin to open up on either side of the peninsula. 

The track enters a long, flat, wet tarn field. Entering the bowl-shaped area feels remote even though I know we’re not all that far from the very popular Wineglass Bay. One more small climb and we tag the summit of Mount Graham. 

After a brief break, we drop down 600 feet into the saddle between the two peaks. Then up another 800 to the summit of Mount Freycinet. It’s slow going. The track up to Freycinet is closer to a scramble. But it’s definitely worth it. The views from the top are incredible.

Claiming the summit of Freycinet took longer than expected and we don’t linger too long at the top. After the scramble back down the trail becomes much more gradual. We had debated going back the way we came to make the hike shorter. But we're glad we didn't. The long way around turns out to be much faster walking. Especially after we get down to sea level at Cooks Beach. From here it is flat walking for the next 5 miles.

On Hardzards Beach we turn around and grab a golden hour view of Mount Freycinet. We even see a wombat running along the beach!

In the fading light, we walk along the Hazards Beach Track eventually returning home in the evening twilight.

Links:

Scrambling Up Mount Parsons

Scrambling around on rocks is one of my favorite ways to hike. Especially, scrambling coupled with a choose your own adventure style route. And this hike you can do without climbing gear or difficult navigation challenges. 

As a disclaimer, this is not an easy hike. If the rocks were wet or frosty your day could go sideways fast. The exposed cliffs along the coast could drop off quite a ways. But on a sunny day, as we had, it made for an excellent time picking our way up the rocks to the top.

At the end of the short Sleepy Bay Track, we scramble up on the rocks and were greeted with a sign that warns us about the dangers of off-trail scrambling. The trail leading into the brush grows fainter and many side spurs appear. From here the fun begins. 

The track climbs about 1,000 feet over ~one mile of climbing. The strategy is to stay on the exposed rocks and avoid getting mired in the brush. We found it was easier to travel closer to the coast. This also gave us sweeping views over the Pacific.

At the summit, we have lunch looking out over Wineglass Bay, Mount Freycinet, and the endless ocean. A multi-day trip known as the Skyline Traverse can be made by continuing on to the summits of Mount Baudin, Mount Dove, and Mount Amos. Maybe another time.  

For us, it was back down more or less the same way we went up, along the steep coastal cliffs. We glance down and see the ocean churning. Dolphins! A pod of them was circling a school of fish. One-by-one they take turns jumping into the middle of the circle and feast. 

If you go:

Urban Hiking Kunanyi / Mt Wellington

Hobart is my favorite city in Australia. I love the weather, I love the walkability. Best of all it has a mountain you can summit from downtown. We didn’t go all the way to the summit of Kunanyi/Mt Wellington but we did manage to do an epic day hike right out the door of our Airbnb.

The first stop with any urban adventure is coffee. Ginger Brown was highly recommended by our friends and did not disappoint. Excellent coffee and cake. Full of caffeine and sugar we start our 2,000ft climb along the Hobart Rivulet. The well-manicured trail slowly gives way to a more rugged and rocky path as we climb higher.

At Junction Cabin we start our loop to see the Octopus Tree, Sphinx Rock, and head past the Lost Freight Cafe - a cafe in a shipping container. The Octopus Tree does look like an Octopus, Sphinx Rock is more of a stretch. The trail is mostly forested but we have occasional views of the city and harbor below. The skies are crystal clear and we can see for miles. 

We head down a fire road on the way downhill, much faster than the climb up. In the evening light wallaby’s start to bounce across the trail. Back in the city, we pass the Cascade Brewery. Tempting but we’re both wiped. The couch sounds a lot better!

If you go:

A Pandemic Escape

Surprise, I’m down under! 

With the ability to work remotely and facing a long, lonely covid winter it seemed like the best option to make it down here for a bonus summer… and maybe longer?

On a bus to an unknown location

Do we tip the army for the concierge service?

It still feels a bit unreal that I’m here. Flights were near impossible to get. Australia is only allowing citizens and their spouses in (I’m lucky to be the latter). Upon arrival, we were whisked away by the army straight into hotel quarantine. They deposited us and our bags into a hotel room and said “see you in two weeks.”

For the next two weeks, the only time we were allowed to open the door to our tiny hotel room was when food was dropped at our door. At first, we tried daily exercises (running laps around the room, pushups) but then abandoned that for laying in bed. Honestly, it was good we both had work to keep us occupied. 

Feeding time at the zoo

Thru-hiker sink laundry skills coming in handy

It seems there is still a world out there

Good views though

Finally, two weeks passed and we were let out into the world. And what a world it is. Australia has had almost no COVID cases for the last 6 months. With the border shut, life has resumed to pre-covid normality. No masks, no distancing. I’m hugging people and going to crowded indoor spaces. It took a while to process and feel ok with this sudden change. But now it seems normal. 

We’ve been staying in North Adelaide, just steps from the parklands, the enormous green spaces that ring Adelaide’s downtown. For a city that (much to my dismay) sprawls in every direction, having abundant nature around is a very welcome sight. 

Inviting…

The River Torrens Linear Trail cuts through the heart of the parklands spanning 35km from the hills to the coast. On the coastal side, it connects to the 70km Coast Park Path. On the hills side, it connects to countless hiking options. For urban walkers it’s a true paradise. 

After a tumultuous 2020, I’m thankful to start 2021 off with a more sedate (and sunny!) atmosphere exploring all these new trails.

Links:

Ice Age Trail (IAT) - Merrimac Segment

On the border of Devil’s Lake State Park sits a quiet section of the Ice Age Trail in the Merrimac Preserve. This section is 3.5 miles each way through oak savannah with views of the Baraboo Bluffs in the distance. In total, the Merrimac Preserve has ~10 miles of trail giving you many loop options. The few people and wide trails make this a favorite of mine for trail running.

Today I did an out and back parking at the IAT Merrimac Trailhead with my turnaround point at the IAT Roznos Meadows Trailhead. The Merrimac TH is almost always a better parking option. It’s less crowded and you don’t need a state park sticker.

For the first of November, the weather is surprisingly warm and sunny. The hike begins by walking through thick oak and hickory forest. After 1.5 miles you pop out into a meadow and cross a road getting good views of the bluffs. A bit past the trail junction, there is a warming hut for snowshoe and cross-country skiers. 

The rest of the trail is more open, with a boardwalk crossing a swamp and then back into the oak savannah. Roznos Meadows is surprisingly crowded today with cars parked along the shoulder of the road. The hikers must be heading into Devil’s Lake State Park because we’ve only seen a handful in the preserve. 

We turn around here and head back. Just before reaching the car, we are treated to a small garter snake sunning itself.  

Links:

Waterfall Gully & Mt Lofty Hike

Adelaide’s a hot, dry city, but the hills offer respite on a sweltering day. And the aptly named Waterfall Gully offers waterfalls tucked in amongst the greenery. It’s part of a larger trail network that weaves through the Adelaide hills.

For this hike we started at Measday’s Lookout and hiked down the second and first falls. After that we steeply climbed up to Castle Rock and got a nice view down the valley. Then we worked our way past Cleland Wildlife Park and up to the summit of Mt Lofty.

It was hot out and we appreciated grabbing a cold drink at the full service cafe at the Mt Lofty lookout. Sadly the views from the top were hazy. The way down was through shaded gum trees with occasional views of the city and ocean below. Overall a fun 5.75 mile hike and I’d certainly love to come back and hike the other trails in the area.

If you go:

Ice Age Trail (IAT) - Mecan River Segment

No one is going to confuse the rolling hills of Wisconsin as the more prominent peaks of the western states but there is a quiet subdued beauty here that is often overlooked. 

A bit over an hour from Madison is the Mecan section of the Ice Age National Scenic Trail. On an overcast late fall day it provides a nice hike through forest and open oak savanna.

2019-11 Mecan River-7.jpg

We start at the 6th Lane/Chicago Road trailhead and head south east. There is a surprising amount of snow in the forested section here. With the leaves gone we also get occasional views down to the river. 

2019-11 Mecan River-3.jpg

The trail then opens up into the oak savanna. I love the way oaks sprawl their limbs out from their trunks creating a canopy over of the trail. This would be a lovely spot on a warm summer day. 

2019-11 Mecan River-5.jpg
2019-11 Mecan River-8.jpg

When we reach the parking area on 9th Ave. we turn around and come back the way we came to the car for a total of about 7.5 miles. 

2019-11 Mecan River-4.jpg

I certainly am still coming to terms with the terrain of Wisconsin after living in Colorado and spending the summer hiking through the Pacific Northwest. But secret hikes like this help to ease the transition. 

If you go:

Mecan River TH

Map: Caltopo / Gaia

IAT Guidebook Sample

Ice Age Trail Alliance